The supporting actors outshine the A-listers at Beija Flor in LIC. Sure, we’d happily eat a bucket of the chicken coxinha, but dip them in the bright, herb-filled mayo, and you’ll nearly forget about their crispy shells and juicy chicken. The picanha is perfectly grilled, but the flavor of the meat plays third fiddle to the smell coming off the sizzling skillet, and the best yuca fries in the city. And the feijoada is smoky and full of fatty meat, but somehow, the collard greens on the side end up being one of the most memorable things here. One main character that can command the colorful, hanging flower-covered room on its own is the moqueca, which has a slightly sweet broth you’ll drink straight from the bowl (or pour over an extra side of rice).
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