Supawan is a Thai restaurant near King’s Cross that totally blends in with its surroundings. Caledonian Road is one of the most understated parts of London, and Supawan doesn’t jump out at you any more than any other restaurant around here. Inside there are wooden tables and some funky orange seating. It feels functional rather than fashionable, but it’s the food here packs a punch. The yum khao tod starter is fantastic, but leaving a description of this crispy rice salad at that would be doing it a disservice. The chilli, ginger, and lime feels like acupuncture for your mouth. It’s glorious. A lot of the food here has that kind of effect on you. That ice cold water on your face and a slap for good measure feeling. Chicken red curry and tom yum soup are invigorating and delicious. Whilst chicken (and prawn) stuffed crispy chicken wings are a complete revelation. Especially when we think of mushroom stuffed mushrooms, devilled eggs, and other sad alumni from the 1980s school of self-stuffing.
Supawan is the kind of restaurant that you’ll come back to again and again. The first time will probably be two of you. A couple of starters and currys. Then you’ll be in King’s Cross on your own with an hour to spare, and suddenly find your grubby mitts all over those chicken wings and some duck spring rolls. Before you know it you’ll have booked the big round table for your birthday dinner because, well, why wouldn’t you?
This is one of the best rice dishes we’ve ever eaten. Hands down. There’s more going on in here than a whole season of Love Island, and the feelings you’ll have for it are very real.
Eating something stuffed with itself could sound either unimaginative or boring. These chicken wings stuffed with chicken and prawn are neither. They’re fragrant, packed with lemongrass, and sit in an excellent chilli sauce.
Don’t be put off by duck spring rolls being a more conventional order, because these will probably be the best you’ve had. They’re crisp and thick, and if they kept bringing them out we’d keep on eating them.
Don’t expect to tire of the sour and spicy punch of this tom yum soup. It’s the best of its kind we’ve had in London.
Though this chicken red curry doesn’t hit the peak of some the starters, it’s still extremely tasty. The heat is three dots - the highest of Supawan’s dot scale - and it’s a bit of a grower, but we thoroughly enjoyed it.