Being past your prime gets a bad rap. Ask anyone who’s seen The Rolling Stones live recently. They'll tell you that there’s something quite endearing about what might at first glance resemble four dehydrated Top Gear audience members doing karaoke. Odette’s in Primrose Hill has got a touch of this about it. It’s a Bill Nighy character in restaurant form, serving up flair-ish dishes that have a touch of the razzle-dazzle about them, like a generously horseradish-topped salmon tartare, but that, ultimately, flatter to deceive. Nothing here is even close to bad, just things like a dry confit chicken leg with wild garlic sauce feel and taste par for the course. Nevertheless, Odette’s is perfectly pleasant for a reasonable set lunch under twenty quid. Sit inside if you want to feel like you’re eating with your parents, or out front if you want a twenty-year-old-Café-Rouge-terrace-begging-for-some-TLC vibe. Either way, it’s nice, but was probably nicer back in the day.
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Lume Restaurant And Wine Shop
Lume is a Sardinian restaurant and wine bar in Primrose Hill serving upscale pastas and mains in a casual, lowkey space.
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Holborn Dining Room
The Holborn Dining Room is a big and grand all-day restaurant inside the Rosewood Hotel, but the only things you should go there for are the pies.
Cora Pearl is an smart restaurant in Covent Garden serving excellent tarted up versions of the classic British meat and two veg.
Portland is a great restaurant in the vein of so many in London that focus on simple ingredients and offer a reasonably priced tasting menu.
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